| Zermatt, the imperial
crown |
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For anyone who has been to Zermatt and has done some climbing or hiking in the area, once your first look moves away from the imposing Matterhorn you must have noticed the beauty of the surrounding peaks. If you wish to explore the eastern side of the valley, take a look at the Monte Rosa in our Monte Rosa Skyline and Matterhorn or our Monte Rosa Traverse trip.
The other side of the valley is also a great climbing destination, more technical, more challenging. We would like you to have the chance to discover the best climbs on Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn and Dent Blanche. Our itinerary follows classic routes chosen for the quality of the rock as well as the elegance of the lines.
Those climbs are for experienced climbers with a good alpine technique on rock and ice and an excellent physical condition.
Let us know if you would like to climb one of them after a Matterhorn or Monte Rosa program. |
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| Duration |
8 days |
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| Dates of the trip |
July 15th to 22nd; July 29th to August 5th;
August 5th to 12th; August 26th to 2nd |
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| Guide to client ratio |
1 : 1 |
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| Cost |
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See our payment conditions |
| Technical level required |
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| Cost includes : professional UIAGM mountain guide, local
transportation (trams, trains, buses), community gear,
night, dinner and breakfast in the huts |
| Cost does not include : meals and hotels in towns (Zermatt)
lunches, flights and transportation to Zermatt and/or
Geneva/Zürich, any extra expenses due to a change
in our program |
| Your are responsible for : your own equipment, expenses
in case of rescue |
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| Day 1 |
Meeting in our hotel in Zermatt. Equipment check. In the afternoon hike to the Schönbeil Hütte (2694 m). We will start our trip in this magnificent area of cascading glaciers surrounded by impressive faces such as the Matterhorn North Face. |
| Day 2 |
Our first climbing day will take us to the Wandfluehorn, an easy class III scrambling, on our way to the Dent Blanche hut (3507 m). We will take some time to review safety techniques and practice them. Night at the hut. |
| Day 3 |
Early start for one of the best climb in the area. The solid gneiss on the southern ridge of Dent Blanche warms up in the early morning sun light. A spectacular class V climb in an incredible alpine environment. From the summit (4356 m) we will return to the hut by the same way. |
| Day 4 |
A transition day, back to Schönbiel Hütte and the hike to the Arben Biwak (3224 m) nested on a rock buttress at the base of the massive south face of the Obergabelhorn. Across the valley from us, the evening sun shines on the famous Matterhorn north face. This unique eagle nest location is a guarantee for a wonderful moment away from the crowd. |
| Day 5 |
We will start our climb of Obergabelhorn (4062 m) by a wide buttress in the south face joining up on the Arben ridge. From there, along the west ridge to the summit, a great climb in good rock. From the top, the descent follows the east ridge, along the edge of the steep north face, one of the best ice climb in the area. One more step over the Wellenkuppe before reaching the Rothorn Hütte after a short glacier traverse. |
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| Day 6 |
Our next objective is the Zinalrothorn (4221 m). Along the south ridge, where the rock is also excellent we will reach the summit before returning to the hut by the normal route (East ridge) and Zermatt for a well deserved hotel night after a good celebration meal. |
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| Day 7 |
Late start for our hike to the Weisshorn
hut (2932 m). |
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| Day 8 |
The last peak on our list, the Weisshorn (4505 m) is also the more remote and the highest. You might have noticed its splendid east face while traveling in the train, on your way to Zermatt. We will reach the summit by the East Ridge, good rock, steep ice and exposed climbing for the cherry on our cake. Back to Zermatt in the afternoon. |
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