| The Ultimate Alpine Trilogy : Eiger - Matterhorn - Mont Blanc | |
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| Duration |
9 days | | | Dates of the trip | July 1st to 10th; July 15th to 24th; August 5th to 14th ; August 26th to September 4th | | | Guide to client ratio |
1 : 1 on Eiger and Matterhorn
1 : 2 on other peaks |
| | Cost |
6000.- CHFr or 3700 Euros | See our payment conditions | Technical level required |  | | | |
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| Cost includes : professional UIAGM mountain guide, local transportation (trams, trains, buses), community gear, night, dinner and breakfast in the huts | | Cost does not include : meals and hotels in towns (Grindelwald, Zermatt, Chamonix or other) lunches, flights and transportation to Grindelwald and/or Geneva and/or Zürich, any extra expenses due to a change in our program | | Your are responsible for : your own equipment, expenses in case of rescue | | |
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This program will give you the chance to visit the most famous places in the Alps – Grindelwald, Zermatt and Chamonix – and to climb each one of those mythic peaks where the glorious pages of alpinism have been written.
Numerous guiding services sell those climbs as easy and do not present to their future clients the correct picture of this challenging climbing trip. We want you to succeed, we want you to have the best chances to summit on all peaks. We want you to be well prepared and to know what to expect. This is the reason why we start our program in Grindelwald that offers easy access to altitude and easier terrain for practicing and revising your alpine skills. This option gives you the best chances for a good acclimatization before the more strenuous climbs of Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. We have observed a greater rate of success on Mont Blanc since our clients get to Chamonix having accumulated plenty of “red cells”… It, as well adds two peaks, Mönch and Jungfrau thereby extending our trilogy to a rich and fulfilling climbing experience.
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| Day 0 |
Meeting in our hotel in Grindelwald. Equipment check and team meeting in the evening. |
| Day 1 | Morning train ride to the Jungfraujoch (11350 ft). This exciting journey will take us to the Kleine Scheidegg offering great views on the Eiger North face. From there the train reaches the Jungfraujoch by an incredible tunnel through the Eiger itself. From the train, easy glacier travel to the foot of the south ridge of Mönch (13450 ft). A great mixed climb with short section of good rock and an exposed snow ridge to the summit. Descent by the same ridge and short traverse to the Mönchjoch Hütte (11900 ft). | | Day 2 |
Glacier travel to the base of the Rottsattel ridge. The climb of Jungfrau (13640 ft) is mostly in snow and ice, the last section from the saddle at a fairly steep angle. Descent by the same way and back to the Jungfraujoch train. We will stop at the first station called Ice Meer. Descent onto the glacier and after a short traverse we will start climbing up to the Mittellegi ridge line where the hut stands at 11000 ft. |
| Day 3 | Morning start along the east ridge of the Eiger, also called Mittellegi. The last section along the edge of the north face is always a great moment of mountaineering. Descend by the west ridge and from the Kleine Scheidegg, by train back to Grindelwald.
The ascent of the Mittellegi ridge is a challenging climb and slightly more difficult than the other climbs propose on this trip. The option of the South ridge of Eiger can be a good alternative in case of difficult condition or if you wish to take it a little easier. | | Day 4 |
Travel to Zermatt and easy hike to the Hörnli Hütte (10700 ft). |
| | Day 5 | Early start in the pale light of our headlamps. We will rope up just outside the hut and start climbing along the north-east ridge of Matterhorn. The first half is an intermediate class III to IV climb. As we reach the Solvay huts, the ridge gets steeper and the climb becomes more exposed. The summit (14689 ft) will fulfil you with this great feeling of having reached your goal. In the far distance the Alps, stretching away into the Berner Oberland on one side and the Mont Blanc on the other side. But, it is still a long way down…
Night in Zermatt. | | Day 6 |
Travel to Chamonix and rest day. |
| Day 7 |
By cable car to the Aiguille du Midi. Climb of the Cosmiques ridge, an exciting mixed climb .
We will spend the night at the Cosmiques Hut (12000 feet). |
| Day 8 | An early start for our final climb and traverse of Mont Blanc. This traverse can be described as three major steps, the first one takes us to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul (13450 feet), the second one over the col Maudit to the col de la Brenva (14000 feet) and the final push to the summit. The descend will follow the classic Arêtes des Bosses to the Dôme du Goûter (14000 feet) and the Goûter hut before descending to the Nid d’Aigle and back to les Houches and Chamonix by train and bus. | | Day 9 | Reserve day in case of uncertain weather or difficult conditions on the mountain.
Can also be used for rock climbing or canyoning in the Chamonix area. | | |
Why choose Alpine-Dreams for your Trilogy :
- Offers much more than a standard Alpine Trilogy : you will also climb Mönch, Jungfrau and the Cosmiques ridge.
- Better acclimatization and higher succes rate on Matterhorn and Mont Blanc
- Reserve day for more flexibility
- Low client to guide ratio : 1 to 1 on Eiger and Matterhorn, limited at 1 to 2 for other climbs
- All climbing expenses included (guide, B&B in huts, transportation)
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