| Mont Blanc and Matterhorn |
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| Duration |
5 days |
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| Dates of the trip |
From July 1st to september 15th
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| Guide to client ratio |
1 : 2 / 1 : 1 on Matterhorn |
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| Cost |
4500 CHFr @ 1:1
3000 CHFr @ 1:2 (1:1 on Matterhorn)
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See our payment conditions |
| Technical level required |
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| Cost includes : professional UIAGM mountain guide, local
transportation (trams, trains, buses), community gear,
night, dinner and breakfast in the huts |
| Cost does not include : meals and hotels in towns (Chamonix-Zermatt
) lunches, flights and transportation to
Chamonix-Zermatt and/or Geneva, any extra expenses due to a change
in our program |
| Your are responsible for : your own equipment, expenses
in case of rescue |
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Mont Blanc and Matterhorn are two of the most representative peaks in the Alps. Mont Blanc is the highest peak in western Europe. It is heavily covered by impressive galciers that flow into the Chamonix valley. At the contrary, the massive rocky silhouette of Matterhorn attracts irrestitively the eye of any visitor in Zermatt.
Climbing Mont Blanc is a rewarding challenge that has to be undertaken with a solid alpine technique, stamina and motivation. We will do our best to offer you this great summit and to give you the best chances, we will start our trip with some alpine climbing on the Cosmiques ridge, to get into shape… review your technical skills and acclimatise.
To get the best of the mountain we will traverse the Three Mont Blanc, from the Cosmiques hut, reaching Mont Blanc via the Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Mont Maudit before descending the normal route by the Dôme du Goûter to les Houches.
The second step of our adventure will take us to Zermatt for climbing Matterhorn. This is also a serious and challenging climb. The skills and fitness acquired during the Mont Blanc Traverse, will be greatly useful for a successful climb.
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| Day 0 |
Meeting in our hotel in Chamonix. Equipment check and team meeting in the afternoon. |
| Day 1 |
By cable car we will reach the Aiguille du Midi.
Today’s climb will take us on the Cosmiques Ridge, a beautiful and classic mixed route on Chamonix great granite. Class IV to V scrambling.
We will spend the night at the Cosmiques Hut (12000 feet). |
| Day 2 |
An early start for our final climb and traverse of Mont Blanc. This traverse can be described as three major steps, the first one takes us to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul (13450 feet), the second one over the col Maudit to the col de la Brenva (14000 feet) and the final push to the summit. The descend will follow the classic Arêtes des Bosses to the Dôme du Goûter (14000 feet) and the Goûter hut before descending to the Nid d’Aigle and back to les Houches and Chamonix by train and bus.
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| Day 3 |
Transfer to Zermatt. A three hours journey across the beautiful Rhone Valley.
Stay at our hotel in Zermatt. Rest day. |
| Day 4 |
By cable car to Schwarzsee and to the Hörnli Hütte. |
| Day 5 |
Early start in the pale light of our headlamps. We will rope up just outside the hut and start climbing along the North East ridge of Matterhorn. The first half is an intermediate class III to IV climb. As we reach the Solvay huts, the ridge gets steeper and the climb becomes more exposed. The summit (14689 ft) will fulfil you with this great feeling of having reached your goal. In the far distance the Alps, stretching away into the Berner Oberland on one side and the Mont Blanc on the other side. But, it is still a long way down…
Back to Zermatt.
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