| Matterhorn and preparatory climbs | |
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| Duration | 7 days | | | Dates of the trip | July 8th to 14th; July 29th to August 4th
August 12th to 18th; September 2nd to 8th | | | Guide to client ratio | 1 : 1 | | | Cost | | See our payment conditions | | Technical level required |  | | | |
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| Cost includes : professional UIAGM mountain guide, local transportation (trams, trains, buses), community gear, night, dinner and breakfast in the huts | | Cost does not include : meals and hotels in towns (Zermatt) lunches, flights and transportation to Zermatt and/or Geneva, Zürich, any extra expenses due to a change in our program | | Your are responsible for : your own equipment, expenses in case of rescue | | |
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Matterhorn is the symbol of the Swiss Alps. Its overwhelming presence makes it a goal for any climber in Zermatt. We will spend some time practising your mountaineering skills on the neighbouring peaks before our final attempt on the Horn, as locals call it. Our climb will follow the Hörnli ridge, the normal route along the north-east ridge. If the climb is sometimes described as an easy scrambling, we will look at it with much more respect. The first section is a class III to IV climb, with very challenging route finding. As we reach the Solvay hut at 13000 ft the climb becomes more demanding and exposed. Along the edge of the famous north face, we will reach the summit where all ridges drop steeply into the valley. This will be a unique moment of self accomplishment and respect for a very beautiful and unique peak. Matterhorn is a challenging climb for anyone who has seen its image or who has been to Zermatt, it can be the dream of a life to reach its summit. We propose here a general program that will enable you to achieve this goal in the best conditions. During the preparatory climbs, you will have time to acclamatize and improve your physical condition as well as your technical skills. We have kept our guide to client ration to 1 : 1, this will create a complicity between you and your guide, he will find out about your fears and strength and adapt the program to your very personal needs. Much more than a climbing seminar, a customized training session. No doubt that after such a treatment you will be standing on the summit... | |
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| Day 1 | Meeting in our hotel in Zermatt. Equipment check and team meeting in the afternoon. | | Day 2 | Morning train ride to Rotenboden, on the way to the Gornergrat.
We will spend the day revising climbing and security techniques on the Rifflehorn. From easy scrambling to class IV climbing, this small peak is a perfect playground to prepare our trip. The views over the Zermatt valley are beautiful and will give you the opportunity to picture in the geography of the area. | | Day 3 | By cable car, we will travel to the Klein Matterhorn (13000 ft). Along the southern side of Breithorn, we will start our glacier travel to reach the base of the south ridge of Pollux (13400 ft). A fun climb will take us to the final snow ridge (class III). We will descend by the same way and then to the Rifuggio Guide del Val d’Ayas at 11000 ft. | | Day 4 | The traverse of the Breithorn (13600 ft) will give you the chance to practice your mountaineering skills in glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing before a long strech on good rock along the final ridge. Back to Zermatt, night at the hotel. | | Day 5 | An easy day before our final attempt on Matterhorn. A late start and a cable car to Schwarzsee (8500 ft). Easy hike to the Hörnli Hütte (10700 ft).
| | Day 6 | Early start in the pale light of our headlamps. We will rope up just outside the hut and start climbing along the North East ridge of Matterhorn. The first half is an intermediate class III to IV climb. As we reach the Solvay huts, the ridge gets steeper and the climb becomes more exposed. The summit (14689 ft) will fulfil you with the great feeling of having reached your goal. In the far distance the Alps, stretching away into the Berner Oberland on one side and the Mont Blanc on the other side. But, it is still a long way down… | | Day 7 | Our reserve day in case of uncertain weather or difficult conditions on the mountain. Can also be used for rock climbing or canyoning in the Zermatt area or further down into the Rhone valley. | | |
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