| Day 1 |
Meeting in our hotel in Zermatt. Equipment
check and team meeting in the afternoon. |
| Day 2 |
Early in the morning we will travel by cable car, to the Klein Matterhorn (13000 ft). Along the southern side of Breithorn, we will traverse the glacier before climbing up to the saddle at the base of the East ridge of the mountain. An exciting class V in good rock will be our first challenge. After the summit (13600 ft) we will descent to the Rifugio Guide Val d’Ayas, for our first Italian hut experience. |
| Day 3 |
We are now setting the pace… two peaks per day… Our first climb will be along the South ridge of Pollux (13400 ft), an easy mixed climb before traversing the summit for a descent along the east ridge and our next goal, the Castor (13800 ft). We will keep traversing, descending along the east ridge to the Riffugio Quitino Sella (11700 ft). |
| Day 4 |
A beautiful day with the traverse of Liskamm from the western summit (14589 ft) to its eastern summit (14852 ft) along a beautiful narrow and sometimes corniced snow ridge. A fantastic traverse before descending to the Rif Mantova (11482 ft). |
| Day 5 |
We will climb the Pyramide Vincent (13828 ft) and some other fourteeners on our way to the Signalkuppe at 14957 ft where we will spend the night in the highest hut in the entire Alps, the Rifugio Margherita. From this eagle nest the views are really impressive with a 360° alpine panorama. The sunset in Margherita is one of the highlight of the trip. |
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| Day 6 |
In the morning sun we will climb the south ridge of Dufour Spitze (15200 ft). A class IV climb to the highest summit of Monte Rosa.
A long return to Zermatt.
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| Day 7 |
A rest day in Zermatt, time for contemplating and enjoying our successful taverse in the Monte Rosa. |
| Day 8 |
By cable car to Schwarzsee and short hike to the Hörnli
hut (10700 ft). |
| Day 9 |
Early start in the pale light of our headlamps. We will rope up just outside the hut and start climbing along the North East ridge of Matterhorn. The first half is an intermediate class III to IV climb. As we reach the Solvay huts, the ridge gets steeper and the climb becomes more exposed. The summit (14689 ft) will fulfil you with this great feeling of having reached your goal. In the far distance the Alps, stretching into the Berner Oberland on one end with the Mont Blanc on the other side. But, it is still a long way down… |
| Day 10 |
Our reserve day in case of uncertain weather or difficult conditions on the mountain. Can also be used for rock climbing or canyoning in the Zermatt area or further down into the Rhone valley. |
